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Dictionary of Fashion Terms

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Elsabeth of the 1500s

Shakespeare's Ladies

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Helen of the Edwardian Age

Lily of the Edwardian Age (c. 1906)

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May Alice (1920s Child)

Betty of the Gallant
1940s

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The Way We Wore 1969

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The Dictionary of Fashion Terms

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Gown with dagged sleeves designed for a court masque, early 1600s from Shakespeare's Ladies. Gown with dagged sleeves

Dagged Edge
A dagged edge is irregularly shaped to resemble a leaf. It was popular in the Middle Ages. The early 17th century gown to the left was designed with a deliberately antique feel for a court masque. It combines the medieval dagged edging on the sleeves with the silhouette popular in the early 1600s.

 

Parisian décolleté lace and chiffon gown, 1907 from The Cutups Call on Rose O'Neill (unavailable) décolleté evening gown Décolleté
Any neckline that is cut low and wide to display the neck and shoulders (and sometimes the back) can be said to be décolleté.
Elegant demi-trained visiting ensemble, 1876, from Corina (not currently available) Gown with short train Demi-Train
"Demi" always means "smaller," so a demi-train is shorter and less elaborate than a full, formal train. Although this one actually looks like a fairly long train to me, it was labeled as a demi-train. That just gives us an idea of elaborate importance 1876 gave to the backs of dresses with trains, bustles, drapery and all manner of furbelows.
Déshabillé gown for entertaining at home, 1923, from The Roaring Twenties (not currently available) 1920s at home gown

Déshabillé or Dishabille
Déshabillé is the French word for "undressed." In a fashion sense it describes a comfortable garment meant to be worn only at home and only for somewhat casual - or ate least friendly- entertainment. Many garments that are described as déshabillé are quite elaborate, such as the one from the 1920s to the left. Because they follow prevailing fashions, albeit in a more comfortable way, the déshabillé garments from the the 1700s through much of the 20th century have little in common except that they require little or no corseting.

Elaborate dinner gown trimmed with metallic embroidered lace, 1904, from Lily of the Edwardian Age Edwardian dinner dress

Dinner Dress
The main difference between a dinner dress and an evening gown is that a dinner dress generally has sleeves and an evening gown very well may not. Dinner dresses could be quite elaborate, even splendid.

Short double-breasted jacket from The Way We Wore 1969 Double breasted jacket


Double Breasted
The term refers to the cut of jackets, coats and other garments with two rows of buttons, snaps, or frogs forming the front closure.

Man's doublet, based on a painting of Sir Walter Raleigh, from Shakespeare's Ladies Doublet Doublet
The doublet was a close fitting men's garment worn over a shirt from the 15th to 17th centuries. This one is actually worn by Shakespeare's character Viola when she disguises herself as a boy.
Evening or dinner gown with an interestingly draped bodice clasped by an elaborated enameled buckle, 1923, from Jazz Age Sisters 1920s draped dress Drape
A garment is said to be draped when some part of it falls into loose, somewhat unconstructed folds. Draped garments range from ancient Greek dress, through the bunchy effects of late 19th century bustles and beyond. Draping was extremely popular in the 1920s and 1930s.
Loose drawers trimmed with broderie anglaise, c. 1905, from Nancy of the Edwardian Age Edwardian drawers Drawers
Originally drawers were divided at the crouch and eschewed by respectable women who wore nothing at all that we would recognize as underwear. Gradually these open drawers gained respectability. In the early 19th century closed drawers were worn by little girls under their dresses as a decorative part of their ensembles. Later, when crinolines came into fashion, and fewer petticoats were necessary, women adopted drawers.
Child's dress with dropped waist defined by a sash, from May Alice, Child of the 1920s. 1920s dropped waist dress

Dropped Waist
The dropped waist falls below the natural waist. The dropped waist was nearly universal in the 1920s.

 

Afternoon dress with dropped shoulders, 1914, from Julia of the Nouveau Age. 1914 dropped shoulder dress Dropped Shoulder
The dropped shoulder is a seam joining the sleeve to the bodice that falls somewhat lower on the arm than the actual point of the shoulder. Dropped shoulders were popular off and on throughout the 20th century, especially in the 1980s.
Duster over shirtwaist and skirt, 1906, from The Cutups Call on Rose O'Neill (unavailable). Duster over skirt and blouse Duster
The duster is a loose coat worn to protect clothing from dust during open carriage or, later, automobile rides. After the mid 20th century it also came to mean a loose, coat-like worn around the house as a dressing gown or apron.
One style of traditional cap of the Netherlands; this one is made of lace. From Heritage Brides. Lace Dutch cap

Dutch Cap
There was actually a large variety of traditional caps worn by women of the Netherlands. This particular form is the one that many people think of as a Dutch cap and was loosely copied by some hat designers in the 1930s and 1940s