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Dictionary of Fashion Terms

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Elsabeth of the 1500s

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Helen of the Edwardian Age

Lily of the Edwardian Age (c. 1906)

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May Alice (1920s Child)

Betty of the Gallant
1940s

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The Way We Wore 1969

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The Dictionary of Fashion Terms

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Mandarin Collar, 1922, from The Roaring Twenties (not available) Mandarin Collar
The Mandarin collar (or Chinese collar) surmounts a high, close-fitting neckline. It can usually stand about an inch high and never quite meets in the middle.
Marabou wrap, 1922, from Jazz Age Sisters Marabou
The soft feathers of the marabou, a large African stork, were highly prized for trimmings. This cape is made of dyed marabou with ostrich trim.
Mary Stuart Frills, 1872, from Corina (not currently available)

Mary Stuart Frills
These were stiff pleated or gathered frills placed to stand upright following the upper part of the armhole seam. Left are lace Mary Stuart frills heading the short puffed sleeves of an 1872 evening gown.

Medici collar, c. 1600, from Shakespeare's Ladies

Medici Collar
The Medici collar was an extravagant lace collar wired to frame the face and emphasize a deep neckline. Though named for Catherine de'Medici, it is often associated with the court of Elizabeth I. It was revived in the late 1800s and very early 1900s in a more subdued form and then more exuberantly in the1920s for evening wear. .
Merry Widow hat with plumes, 1904, from Lily of the Edwardian Age Merry Widow Hat
These huge hats piled with elaborated trimmings were named for a character in an early 1900s opereretta. The English language version of The Merry Widow was first performed in London in 1907 and in New York in 1908.
Middy blouse, 1918, from Julia of the Nouveau Age Middy Blouse
The middy blouse is an adaptation of the uniform worn by U.S. Navy midshipmen - hence the name and the requisite sailor collar. There are numerous variations, but most are loose, white or navy usually yoked.
Midi dress from The Way We Wore 1969 Midi Dress
The midi dress (or skirt) was a mid-calf length somewhere between a mini and a maxi, which was ankle length. During the 1960s and 1970s they were popular, but never as popular as the mini.
Mini skirt from The Way We Wore 1969 Mini Dress
The mini skirt was the almost universal skirt length in the late 1960s. When they first came out, I remember seeing a TV episode of Art Linkletter's House Party with a discussion on whether women over 35 should wear skirts above the kneecap. For younger women, there just wasn't any question - skirts were short and shorter.
Moiré taffeta skirt from The Way We Wore 1969 Moiré
Moiré is the name of a fabric effect that resembles rippling water. Moiré silk or satin are often referred to as watered silk or satin. The effect is created by crushing the surface of a slightly ribbed weave with heat and pressure.
Monkey fur trimmed theater ensemble, 1921, from The Roaring Twenties (not available) Monkey Fur
Yes, I know - it seems terrible, but monkey fur, especially the fur of long-haried monkeys, was popular in the 1920s. Supposedly it was soft and warm and quite beautiful. Hard to imagine someone actually wanting to wear it, but apparently there were plenty of takers. We've come a long way, huh?